Circumnavigating South Georgia - Part 1
"Preparing to Cross The Convergence"
Before we sailed that first night Sally Poncet arrived on board for a bon voyage dinner. We talked about birds, friends, love of the natural world (specially that world South of the Convergence), how Dion was home schooled aboard the Golden Fleece and was as knowledgeable, sea-wise and expert at the wildlife of South Georgia as one could be. I had Sally sign her book. [For those who love special books, "A Visitor's Guide to South Georgia," certainly qualifies...it is a bird book, a travel guide, an insightful and comprehensive description of a remote and difficult places to travel around. The book also describes the human history of the many bays and harbors and all who came before--highly recommended]
South Georgia is south of the Antarctic Convergence, a line about 40 km wide in the water that is in constant motion as it wavers north and south within its own natural boundaries. This line is where the colder Antarctic waters meet the northern oceans warmer waters. The Convergence is in motion but usually does not move more than about a half of a degree in latitude from its mean position. The water is usually about 5 degrees colder than just north of where the Convergence meets these northern oceans. It is a natural border in the world, not one drawn by man. On one side there are distinctive forms of marine life from the other side. There are different climates on each side of it determined by the Convergence. Crossing the Convergence is necessary to go to South Georgia or any other place in Antarctica. South Georgia is one of the places on earth that exists within a unique setting largely governed by this Convergence. South Georgia is also one of my most favorite places on earth. It is isolated, rugged, difficult to reach, but teeming with life, beautiful in all weather and virtually a cold and inhospitable paradise.
I have just returned from circumnavigating South Georgia aboard the intrepid schooner-rigged, steel hulled sailing yacht Golden Fleece owned and operated by Jerome Poncet. Jerome has captained many professional film expeditions like the BBC's: "Life in the Freezer" and "Blue Planet" or the National Geographic: "Antarctic Wildlife" and IMAX's natural history, "Survival Island" to name a few. The Golden Fleece and its family are part of the contemporary story of Antarctica. Sally Poncet, Jerome's wife and Dion's mother, is a noted Australian biologist with a great knowledge and passion for seabirds especially those living on South Georgia. She has conducted many of the seabird surveys along with her son Dion. She has produced a number of books on South Georgia and also on the birds. I brought one of her books, "A Visitor's Guide to South Georgia," with me to use as a reference where to find the birds, especially Albatrosses, I was in interested in photographing for my own next book.
The Poncet family lives in the Falkland Islands and we share several other Falkland residents as friends. After my last trip to the Falklands my friends suggested I introduced myself to Jerome by e-mail. I had an overwhelming desire go just about any place south of the Convergence on the Golden Fleece. You might also feel the excitement I felt boarding the Golden Fleece on November 17th in New Stanley. I brought two friends with me, one a film maker and the other a composer with strong legs for packing equipment up the mountainous slopes of South Georgia. The joy of boarding was all the more enhanced when Dion, who was to skipper the expedition, said as I stepped on the pier, "Welcome aboard your yacht." The welcome was almost more than one would hope for in a dream. Dan Fowler, first mate, hugged one and all and stowed our gear below deck. The arrival and official stamping of passports and ships papers by the customs woman was quickly and warmly accomplished.
Golden Fleece - Stanley, Falkland Islands
Before we sailed that first night Sally Poncet arrived on board for a bon voyage dinner. We talked about birds, friends, love of the natural world (specially that world South of the Convergence), how Dion was home schooled aboard the Golden Fleece and was as knowledgeable, sea-wise and expert at the wildlife of South Georgia as one could be. I had Sally sign her book. [For those who love special books, "A Visitor's Guide to South Georgia," certainly qualifies...it is a bird book, a travel guide, an insightful and comprehensive description of a remote and difficult places to travel around. The book also describes the human history of the many bays and harbors and all who came before--highly recommended]
Dinner came to an end about 10 p.m. and Sally took photos of our small 7-person group: Three passengers and four crew. There were lots of laughs and jokes about the possibility that this might be the last meal we would eat before arriving in South Georgia four days from our departure. On the tach South we did run into rough seas and bad weather, but the Golden Fleece lived up to its considerable reputation and skipper Dion took us through it without missing a step. Shortly after the photos Sally departed, we raised the orange bumpers and motored out of New Stanley Harbor. Once clear, Dion and Dan donned their flotation suits, went out on deck in the rising wind and rain and raised the sails. The Golden Fleece became a sailing ship headed into the huge seas between the Falkland Islands and South Georgia. Having been in these seas aboard everything from Russian icebreakers to ice-hardened exploration vessels I had already installed my neck "patch" as my first defense against seasickness...they have always worked for me. I went to my bunk and was tossed asleep.
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